Merci Instruments Adds A Diverse Quartet To The LMM-01 Collection
Whenever I visit Paris, I try to stop by the Merci store on Boulevard Beaumarchais. It offers such a surprising palette of brands that you don’t often see in other stores. I also appreciate the variety of products, like clothing, stationery, and household items. Another thing I thoroughly enjoy, of course, is the watch department. Today, Merci Instruments announces four new references for its LMM-01 collection inspired by 1940s field watches. The watches, dubbed the Dress, Numerals, Militare, and Scientifique, all offer unique dial configurations.
At the end of 2022, Nacho covered the Merci Instruments LMM-01 watch collection for the first time here on Fratello. The Everest, Archiwatch, and Nationale all shared the same 38mm field-watch case and had a light-colored dial with distinctive layouts. Nacho’s favorite was the Everest, but he appreciated the thoughtful design of all three models. However, there were a few things that could’ve been improved. Spoiler alert: Merci Instruments addressed exactly what Nacho pointed out, and the watches became substantially cheaper than before. Let’s dive in.
The new Merci Instruments LMM-01 collection
Like the previous references, the four new ones share the same 38mm stainless steel case. The drilled lugs span 46mm from tip to tip, and the case is still 9mm thick. The earlier references featured a mineral crystal that increased the overall thickness to 12mm. The four new references come with a domed sapphire crystal that doesn’t protrude as much above the fully polished bezel, so the overall thickness is now just under 10mm. In addition, the sapphire crystal is more resistant to scratches and helps increase the water resistance rating to 100 meters from 50.
Underneath the steel case back hides the same Sellita SW210-1 hand-wound movement. This trusty caliber runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, features 19 jewels, and holds a power reserve of 42 hours. You can wind and set it with the unsigned, knurled, and polished push-pull crown. Regarding the dial, you can choose between four configurations to suit your style.
The LMM-01 : Dress
The first one is the dressiest of the bunch. It features a matte black lacquered dial with applied polished stick markers and similarly styled hands. The white railroad track and “Merci Instruments” text provide some contrast, and the ton-sur-ton logo adds a sophisticated touch. This model comes on a shiny black Horween leather strap. In real life, the watch’s design is very clean indeed. Unfortunately, however, it’s not very legible.
The Militare
The Militare version comes closest to the 1940s field watches that inspired the first LMM-01 models. Its taupe dial features white (non-luminous) and beige (luminous) printed numerals for the hours. The yellow ones match the lume inside the white hands. Black crosshairs increase the field-watch vibes, and the “Militare” name is printed in red. I like the dial’s layout a lot, but I would’ve preferred all the numerals to have been the same color.
The LMM-01 : Numerals
The next one is called the Numerals because of the iconic applied Breguet-style numerals on the vertically brushed silver centerpiece of the dial. A white chapter ring surrounds it, adding another nice element to the composition along with the polished bezel and brushed case. The black printing matches the black powder-coated hands. It’s surprising to see such a dressy layout combined with the field-watch-style case, but it works.
The Scientifique
The final version is called the Scientifique, and its inspiration comes from the so-called “atomic” aesthetic from the 1950s. The white and gray dial features a geometric layout and a railroad minute track. There are lume plots at each hour, and each of the dauphine hands contains a narrow strip of lume. To me, this version is the most original of the bunch. I also think this dial layout works best with the case.
Much improved…and cheaper!
So, yes, the Scientifique is my favorite, but I think there’s an LMM-01 for everyone here. And there’s more. I already told you that the watch now features a sapphire crystal and is thinner and more water resistant than before. Those are substantial improvements, so the price will likely have increased, right? Actually, it went down. The previous Merci Instruments LMM-01 models sold for €590 (€650 for the limited-edition Archiwatch). The new references with printed indexes now sell for €390, and the ones with applied indexes cost €420.
Well, that’s a surprise. Nowadays, watch brands use practically any excuse to increase their prices. Merci Instruments just did the opposite. That makes one of these new watches the perfect spontaneous purchase when browsing the store during your next visit to Paris.
Let me know in the comments below what you think of the new Merci Instruments LMM-01 collection. Which version is your favorite?